South Iliniza 5248 m. / 17,218 ft.

Ilinizas is a stratovolcano located 55 km south of Quito. They are a couple of peaks separated by a saddle of 1 km of distance from each other. Iliniza Sur (South) at 5248 m / 17,218 ft. is slightly taller than its northern counterpart (North) of 5126 m / 16,818 ft.

Ilinizas are excellent acclimatization peaks and are frequently used as a preparatory climb to higher peaks in Ecuador.

There is a basic hut localized between both peaks and can be reached in three hours from the car park named "La Virgen" at 4000 m. The mountain hut has a permanent guard.

Itinerary

Iliniza Sur hold more humidity than Iliniza Norte; therefore Sur has a permanent glacier and is suitable for experienced climbers with technical skills and knowledge on steep ice slopes and ramps. Sur features ramps of 45/70 degrees and it can be crevassed, in addition use of ice screws. Technical ice axes and front pointing in one third of the ascent is mandatory. Despite of the technical challenge, the summit of Iliniza Sur is one of the most regarding adventures in the Andes of Ecuador. Day 1 Departure from Quito at 9 am. Travel for two hours up to the area called "La Virgen". 3 hours hike to the mountain hut. In the afternoon gear check. Early dinner at 6 pm. Overnight. Day 2 Leave the hut at 3 am. Reach the summit at 8 am. Return to the refuge at 10 am approximately. Rest, snack and packing. Descend to La Virgen. Drive back to Quito.