Cotopaxi Express

6 days – 4 mountains

The Cotopaxi volcano with 5897 m. is the second highest mountain in Ecuador. Its particular beauty, low technical difficulty and easy access attracts mountaineers from all over.

If your goal is to reach this wonderful summit, Sun and Snow has designed a program in order to optimize the time with a lot of emphasis in a gradual acclimatisation process on three lower peaks in the surrounding area.

Both, acclimatisation mountains and accommodations, have been selected in a logical way where the driving time has been reduced to its minimal.

Itinerary

Day 1. ACCLIMATISATION HIKE TO PASOCHOA (4200 m/13,776 ft.) – DRIVE TO EL CHAUPI Early in the mooring we will leave Quito, driving south for 1:30 hours until the base of Pasochoa peak, it is a small extinct volcano. Here we will start our hike up to the summit (13,776 ft./4200m) from the top we will have a great view of all mountains around including Cotopaxi and far in the distance Cayambe (our next objectives), back at the valley we will drive towards the area of Ilinizas to the little village of El Chaupi. (B/BL/D) Day 2. ACCLIMATISATION ASCENT TO EL CORAZON Corazon is an inactive and eroded volcano located 30 km. South of Quito and is located in the western mountain range. Its proximity to El Chaupi and Cotopaxi and Ilinizas make it an excellent acclimatisation ascent after Pasochoa. We arrive by vehicle up to 4.000 m. / 13,120 ft. to the trailhead depending on the road conditions and immediately start with our hike to the summit. In terms of walking distance it is demanding and its ascent to the top takes approximately 4 hours and two hours to return. Despite being a peak of very few technical difficulties there are two steps of attention for which our guides will always have the appropriate protection equipment. After the summit return to the village of El Chaupi (B/BL/D) Day 3. EL CHAUPI - ILINIZAS CLIMBER’S HUT. After breakfast we will drive towards the base of Ilinizas and stop on a place named "La Virgen" located at 12,792ft/3900 m. From there we will hike up for 3 hours to the mountain refuge (15,200 ft/ 4700 m). Once in the refuge we will have the afternoon to rest, relax and get prepared for the climb. (B/BL/D) Day 4. SUMMIT NORTH ILINIZA AND RETURN TO EL CHAUPI. The route follows the south ridge of the mountain, while we enjoy the sunrise with amazing views of Cotopaxi and the Southern peak. During the last hour we will fix some lines to make our climb faster and safe. We will reach the summit (16,780 ft/5116 m) within 3 hours of climb. After enjoying the summit descend to La Virgen and drive back to El Chaupi. Here we will get rest and recover energy for our next goal. (B/BL/D) DAY 5. COTOPAXI CLIMBER’S HUT (4800 m/15,744 ft) In the morning we will leave for about one hour to the Cotopaxi National Park entrance. After checking in we will take a scenic drive up to the car park at 14,980 ft/4566 m. From there we will go on a short 45 min. hike up to the refuge Jose Ribas. This mountain hut is located on the north face of the mountain. In the afternoon we go to the glacier for a brief glacier training. Later we will have the chance to take great pictures at sunset. Early dinner and rest before we climb one of the most colorful mountains in the country. (B/BL/D) DAY 6. COTOPAXI SUMMIT DAY (5897 m/19,342 ft) RETURN TO QUITO Leaving at 1 am we will hike up the scree slopes for one hour until the entrance of the glacier. After an interesting glacier travel we will deal with a couple of steeper sections (45 degrees) which will take 4 hours then arrive to the Yanasacha wall (18,696 ft/5700 m). From there it is about 1:30 hour climb to the summit. Once on the top we can observe the crater and far in the south the impressive mountains on the "Avenue of The Volcanoes", including Chimborazo. After enjoying the view, we descend to the hut, pack-up and drive back to Quito. (B/BL)