Ecuador Glacier School

9 days - 4 mountains

This is a compact itinerary that provides the "entry level" knowledge, skills, and experience for safe and enjoyable mountaineering experience at high altitude and a glaciated mountain environment.

The itinerary includes some good acclimatization activities where you can gradually get used to the high elevation during the first stage of this expedition. The 35-45 degree angle slopes of Cayambe and Cotopaxi, and their elevation is an excellent introduction to mountaineering techniques on big peaks.

Depending on the technical and skill level of the participants we will focus and put more efforts in advance topics such as ice climbing and crevasse rescue.

During the training you will learn about:

• Basic knots and rope techniques

• Glacier travel

• Rest-step techniques

• Crampon techniques

• Ice axe and self-arrest

• Crevasse rescue

• Ice climbing

• Use of mountaineering equipment

• Leave no trace practices

Safety comes first! In this program we do emphasize on safety and security along with a great learning experience.

Itinerary DAY 1. QUITO - HIKE AROUND LAKE CUICOCHA - OTAVALO AREA We will leave from Quito after an early breakfast, and drive for about 2 hours to Lake Cuicocha (11,482ft/3.500m) located in the Cotacachi-Cayapas ecological reserve. We hike around sapphire-blue Lake Cuicocha, a volcanic crater on the flanks of Cotacachi volcano (16, 204 ft. /4936 m.). We enjoy views of several volcanoes, including Imbabura (15,190 ft. /4630 m.) and Cayambe (18,993 ft. /5789 m.). We spend the night in a wonderful place with cozy Andean style at Otavalo outskirts. (B/BL) DAY 2. OTAVALO - FUYA FUYA SUMMIT (13,986 ft./4263 m) – OTAVALO MARKET – SAN CLEMENTE We will wake up early in the morning and after breakfast drive on a cobblestone road to the Laguna de Mojanda (12,139 ft. / 3700 m), our starting point. We will follow the trail on the northeast side of the mountain which connects to the summit. We hike through the Andean grassland all the way up. Once on the top we will enjoy wonderful views of the surrounding mountains, take some pictures, serve our packed lunch and afterwards return to the car. If possible later in the afternoon there is the option of a short visit to the famous Otavalo market. Otavaleños are most famous for their weavings such as tapestries, sweaters, blankets, ponchos and other woolen goods. You will also find paintings, ceramics and jewelry. Drive and overnight at the unique San Clemente indigenous community. (B/BL/D) DAY 3. IMBABURA SUMMIT (15,190 ft. /4630 m) – SAN CLEMENTE The hike goes through amazing Andean high grasslands (paramo). As we gain elevation we will be able to see the surrounding snowcapped mountains, such as Antisana, Cayambe, and even Cotopaxi far away to the south in clear days. Once we get to the base of the summit we will be facing a non-complicated scramble which leads directly to the top. After we return to the car and drive back to San Clemente. (B/BL/D) DAY 4 - 6. CAYAMBE REFUGE 4600 m / 15,088 ft. In the morning we will drive up towards the upper hills of the Cayambe volcano. Depending on the road conditions we can reach the refuge on our vehicle but if the road is not in good condition, a short hike will be necessary. Once at the refuge we start our training plan. Overnight at the refuge. (B/BL/D) During the glacier training we cover the following subjects: - Snow walking techniques, ice axe positioning, moving in balance and rest-step - Self arrest techniques - Snow and ice security methods and techniques - Crampon techniques - Basic knots and prussiks - Roped glacier travel and route finding After each session you return to the refuge for a comforting meal. (B/BL/D) DAY 7. CAYAMBE SUMMIT DAY - QUITO At midnight we will get up to prepare ourselves for the first BIG ONE, the summit of the Cayambe volcano. The ascent will take around 7 hours of steady pace-climb on snowfields crossed by a few crevasses which are easy to identify and avoid. If the weather is clear we will have the opportunity to admire some far away rivers flowing into the deep Amazon Forest. Return to the refuge and drive back to Quito. (B/BL) DAY 8. COTOPAXI NATIONAL PARK - HIKE TO THE JOSE RIBAS REFUGE (15,748 ft. / 4800 m) After breakfast we leave for a two hours’ drive to the Cotopaxi National Park entrance. After checking in we will take a scenic drive up to 14.980 ft. / 4566 m. from there we will go on a short 45 min. / 1 hour hike up to the refuge, Jose Ribas. This refuge is located on the north face of Cotopaxi and we will have the chance to take great pictures at sunset. Early dinner and rest before we climb one of the most colorful mountains in the country. Overnight at the hut. (B/BL/D) DAY 9. CLIMB COTOPAXI (19,347 ft. / 5.897 m) AND RETURN TO QUITO Leaving at midnight we will hike up the scree slopes for 1 hour until we reach the beginning of the glacier. After a couple of steep sections on 45 degrees, which will take 4 hours we will reach the Yanasacha wall (18.696 ft. / 5700 m.). From there it is about 1 1/2 hour climb to the summit. Once on the summit we can observe the crater and far in the south Chimborazo and all the impressive volcanoes. After enjoying the views, we descend to the hut to pack up and drive back to Quito. (B/BL)